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Whenever compiling a ranking of London’s top eateries, one might expect renowned award-winning establishments. But, nestled high among these culinary heavyweights is a modest salonu situated in a distant part of northern London.

A Unexpected Recognition

This little Turkish restaurant, specialising in the street food of Mersin, a city on Turkey’s southern coast, has been crowned the fourth finest restaurant in the city by a respected gastronomic guide. The accolade has made the owners totally shocked.

“I’m utterly surprised,” remarks the proprietor, alluding to his family’s hard graft that led to their small place achieving such a prominent position on a respected 99-strong list.

The Character of Modesty

The small shop, which used to be a basic cafe before its change into a sought-after spot, has kept much of its original charm. It accommodates just more than 20 people and, aside from the impressive live cooking performance, the setup remains essentially unchanged. “It’s a compact and cozy spot,” notes the owner.

A Signature Offering: Tantuni

In the end, it’s focused on the food, and this establishment certainly excels. The eatery’s eponymous dish, tantuni, is a uncomplicated joy. Choice of meat—lamb or lamb or chicken—is steamed to keep a moist, juicy texture.

The meat is then thrown into a sizeable pan with seasonings and oil, which are incorporated in gradually. As the meaty mixture bubbles up, homemade lavaş—a thin, flexible bread—is slapped on top to soak in all the juices. Finely sliced onions and a sprinkling of parsley are placed before the flavourful meat is wrapped neatly inside.

It is usually enjoyed with a drop of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The final product is a powerful burst of taste, with subtle hints of sumac, bold onions and red, paprika-infused oil pulling it all together.

Beyond the Basic Tantuni

Another option is yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is sliced and finished with yogurt, tomato sauce and aromatic brown butter. A respected food critic described this dish “among London’s few perfect, no-notes dishes”.

For sweets, the restaurant’s künefe goes down a treat. It is coated in lighter syrup than found elsewhere, giving it a more intense, more aromatic and more balanced profile.

Outranking the Giants

Remarkably, this modest spot has been placed higher than several renowned three-Michelin-starred restaurants. It finds itself close to the peak of the list, following other high-profile dining destinations.

While two people could readily leave this place full for less than £25, comparable meals at high-end establishments can cost many times that price.

The Philosophy of Hospitality

It is also among several Turkish restaurants listed and is situated well outside the city’s most expensive zones. “It is not about luxury. London is an costly city. There is an assumption that in an expensive place you’re going to have the best service and finest food but I do not subscribe to that,” says the owner.

“I feel what is most important is hospitality, friendliness and a place you can be yourself and be calm.”

This philosophy is echoed by the list’s curator, who remarked that if he was in a position of power, he would “require to have every chef in London visit this restaurant as a final lesson, to teach them the dangers of excess, and to demonstrate what is possible if you do just one – or three – things to their utmost best”.

The Story of Dedication

In contrast to many chefs running kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the driving force behind the food did not train at Michelin-starred restaurants. “I am truly happy of our restaurant and our mum,” adds her son.

A lot of restaurants require years to find their footing, but this eatery first started seven years ago. Its popularity is due to relentless, seven-day weeks of work.

“Our mum would be very tired. She would source produce in the morning and create the food in the afternoon. Each item is handmade; she would handle all of this. She is a single mum and she balanced a social life but her friends would visit to support her. She was raising children and a house to care for as well. All of these roles shaped her into what she is now: a exceptional person,” he reflects.

A Achievement for the Community

This restaurant’s success is bound to resonate outside its own walls. “I believe many people would be happy, as I am, because the Turkish community is a major part of London,” notes the owner, highlighting the greater importance of this culinary achievement.